Business

Supreme Bakery marks year in Lynn

LYNN ? The owners of Supreme Bakery are celebrating the first anniversary of their popular bread and pastries shop in downtown Lynn.With high hopes last November, Laura Gevorgyan and her husband, Karlen, and adult son, Armen, opened the bakery at 418 Washington St., next door to landmark Cal’s News in Olympia Square.”We are still suffering, but we will be good,” said Gevorgyan, an expert baker who personally prefers pastries with honey and walnuts, but whose customers rave about her “Jakovich” cheese Danish and worldly cakes. “I know everything will be OK. I put all of my heart into this store and my customers are happy.”To celebrate, the Gevorgyans are hosting an open house on Monday, Nov. 24, from 7-11 a.m., when the public is invited to stop by for free coffee and to sample the pastries.”Once Americans taste Armenian sweet bread, they love it,” said Gevorgyan, who waxes passionately about the holy trinity of flour, yeast and water. “Every bread is different. Even if you use the same ingredients, the shape of the bread can change the taste. And some bread, like my French loaf, takes 24 hours to make because it must be refrigerated overnight before I bake. I think it is very interesting that thousands of people make bread every day from flour, yeast, water, and maybe a little salt, sugar or oil, and this becomes thousands of different kinds of bread.”Gevorgyan explained that her bread dough is hand-rolled. “I have no machines except for the mixer. No robots work for me,” she said. “I do everything by hand because I believe you must work the dough carefully and talk to it. When you are angry, if you are in a bad mood, the bread never comes out good.”Supreme Bakery depends mostly on its takeout business, but customers can now order coffee and enjoy their pastries at the small window table. The glass shelves inside the brightly-lit shop are laden with raspberry mousse cake, Brazilian Kindi cookies, coconut macaroons, cappuccino cake, Napoleons, powdered Kouriabie cookies with walnuts, coconut almond cookies, carrot cake, cheese cake, baklava, rum balls, jelly rolls, turnovers and eclairs stuffed with custard.In the Bread Department, there’s Russian rye, Italian scala, Armenian flat, French, whole wheat and, of course, the signature Tuscan ciabatta, all of them freshly baked in the kitchen at the rear of the building.The Gevorgyans immigrated from the Russian state of Georgia over a dozen years ago. A daughter, Rose Bogossian, had married a Boston jeweler and was living in Salem. Eleven years ago, the Gevorgyans moved to nearby Lynn.Laura Gevorgyan, who married at 17, said Georgia was a very different place before the Soviet Union crumbled. “If you wanted to bake, it had to be in a government bakery,” she said. “But things changed after Gorbachev because he let people work at the jobs they wanted ? cook, bake, make shoes ? and they would not be in trouble.”As a youth, Karlen Gevorgyan had worked in a bakery and learned how to make bread and pastries, but his true calling was as a lawyer. Unfortunately, once in the U.S., the language barrier kept him from practicing law. Instead, he turned to baking.Eager to make a living in America, the couple opened Karo’s BBQ in Boston, selling chicken kabobs. In 2004, they sold the business and moved to Venice, Calif. to open a bakery, but competition was fierce. Down but not defeated, they returned to the U.S., opening a commercial bakery in Lynn. When the building in Olympia Square came up for sale, they bought it.Supreme Bakery is open Monday through Thursday, 6 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Friday from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Saturday from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.. It is closed Sunday. For more information, call (781) 595-4226.

More Stories In Business