COURTESY PHOTO
There’s not too much that’s light in Hungary, and dieting is not really a concept here.
By CARLEY THORNELL
“ARRGGHHHH!”
Surely the sound of distress is universal in any language, even if you happen to be in a country where its national parlance is among the hardest to learn in the world. But there are few who can resist making this cry, paradoxically of both pain and pleasure, when taking a tip in the cold plunge pool at Rutas Baths. One of the most iconic pastimes in Budapest, the experience is a true throwback to the Turkish occupation—just one layer of a cultural patchwork that comes from having six border countries and almost 125 thermal springs. The experience both inside and outside is just as diverse. Expect pools and temperatures as diverse as the body shapes, nationalities, and age of visitors—young and old here commingle to enjoy the therapeutic waters of a sauna, octagonal pool with a soaring 10-meter dome, and rooftop pool offering stunning views of the city.
It’s hard not to work up an appetite making the circuit here, and there’s certainly no shortage of ways to satisfy any culinary urges. For a true taste of modern Hungarian cuisine, Bock Bisztro at the centrally located Corinthia Hotel is a great bet (featuring live accordion music); but for a more intimate experience, give “brother” property Vendéglő Kisbíróhoz on the Buda side of the city a try. A corkscrew taxi ride will take you through quieter neighborhoods, much like what awaits when you dig into an excellent wine list, one of the restaurant’s hallmarks. (Hungary has several wine regions, each producing its own varietals.) The first flagship restaurant in Pest was named after chef Lajos Biró’s partnership with József Bock, a winemaker in the Villány region, but this location also offers up affordably priced bottles and glasses as well to complement a menu featuring modern interpretations of classic Hungarian dishes. Forget all preconceptions of something your Grandma would make, and prepare to be amazed by artfully plated grilled peppers, goose foie gras, goulash soup, fresh fish, and wiener schnitzel.
There’s not too much that’s light in Hungary, and dieting is not really a concept here, but tapas has taken hold and for those with smaller appetites and perhaps slightly smaller wallets. Family-owned Padron is worth checking out for another extensive wine list, standard fare like sizzling shrimp in garlic sauce, and some local takeoffs like black pudding balls with orange sauce, and lamb’s shoulder in orange and fig sauce with goat cheese. It’s the perfect way to get a little sustenance without filling up completely for beers that equate to about a dollar at Csendes, a quirky “ruin” bar with lots of fun wall décor like dolls, chandeliers, and tricycles that are perfect for conversation starters. Or there’s Mélypont Presszó, a subterranean lair with couches and comfy chairs that make it look like a basement hangout with the world’s most extensive liquor cabinet. Expect college-age company, or a slightly more mature audience at Szimpla, a larger “ruin bar” akin to the Hungarian Señor Frog’s (a must for every spring break in Cancun). There’s plenty to see, do, dance to and drink, all hours into the early morning.
Those into a more adult atmosphere will want to check out Comme Chez Soi, where the French name is a bit of a misnomer for this Italian restaurant. Unlike the rest of Europe, where smaller portions are the norm, Hungary is an exception and the family-style portions here and elsewhere will have you hoping you brought looser pants in your suitcase. From steak tartare to beef carpaccio, homemade pastas and homemade limoncello to any number of gratis extras (including take-home chocolates), everyone leaves full — and full of happiness for scoring one of just eight to 10 tables.
It’s unlikely you’ll have room for dessert at night, which is why it’s worth spending half a day walking through the charming Castle District and wandering Fishermen’s Bastion before hitting up Ruszwurm Cukraszda for homemade cakes, strudel, or coffee. The family-run café features a 200-year-old cherrywood counter with mouthwatering cream cakes and Dobos torte, a Hungarian sponge cake layered with chocolate buttercream and topped with caramel. If you’re not in sugar shock, trek down for a walk across the iconic Chain Bridge, or take the funicular down and ooh and ahh again at the skyline with the rest of the tourists.
Toast the good life in Tokaj
With a taste for sugar-filled desserts, it’s obvious Hungarians love the sweet life — but this is also something for which oenophiles can rejoice, as the Tokaj wine region is a true hidden gem.
Called the “wine of kings and the king of wines” by Louis XV, the northeast part of the country is renowned for its sweet varietals affected by noble rot. Don’t let the name fool you; the process intensifies sweetness by causing grapes to dehydrate while maintaining sugar levels, and adds flavor complexity. Perhaps nowhere is this more true than at the fields of István Szepsy, who continues his family’s 500-year tradition of grape production (unfortunately put on hold during the Communist rule from 1949 through 1989). The icon for the region of Mad and certified geologist produces about 4,000 cases annually on 63 hectares, painstakingly making sure all grape-harvesters are trained to tend and pick by hand.
There are several local cellars at which to taste his products and others’, and for those with enough time, it’s worth staying over a bit to enjoy the country life and thermal spa at the Andrássy Rezidencia hotel.